In Raub, the oldest surviving first generation Chinese restaurant is perhaps Yuen Kee. The restaurant started as a typical Chinese restaurant (predominantly Cantonese cuisine that is malaysianised) over 60 years ago with a brothers team - the chef is the younger brother and the older brother the Maitre d’hôte, the guy who takes the order and prepares the ingredients. As far as efficiency goes in cooking, I think this restaurant has to get the gold medal. On a given "normal" day, a quick order will result in the dishes almost following you from behind as you start to head back to your seat! As the restaurant has had 3 different stages of location changes, it was reduced from a physical building - restaurant to a stall in a hawker lot. Well...
The one thing that is constant about Yuen Kee restaurant is the incredible "Wok Hei" and its classic flavours. If anything that should instantly send any Raubians to their childhood restaurant flavour this restaurant will win hands down. That having said, having survived the Covid lockdowns, the brothers, now in their 70s, are already tired and worn - and are gazing at imminent retirement for good. And soon!
So, I went for a fully "classic" order feast last Saturday just to have a go at it. For old time's sake.
All "greasy" meals need a good dunking of Chinese tea. The perfect balance. For the uninitiated, the dishes may appear a tad "greasy" and smoky but don't let the appearance fool you. Their goals are not to get a Michelin star. You get what you pay for. And satisfaction guaranteed.
Between the tea arriving and the dishes I ordered, everything was on the table in just about 10 minutes. McDonald and KFC - take note. This is real fast food and efficiency. Not waiting in line for at least 30 minutes to get cooked meals that just need to be packed. We are talking about dishes that need to be cooked from scratch here.
My perennial favourite: kangkong belacan. Never overwhelming nor too spicy yet the kangkong picks up a light smoky sear and never overcooked. A must try.
Classics: Kau Yok or braised Pork Belly with Yam. This is a classic Cantonese and Hakka dish for festive seasons and they deliver it like it should be. Better than any fancy expensive restaurants. If anyone wants to retrace their grandmother's flavour but can't find it - this is where to find it.
The true unsung star of the restaurant - egg Fu Yung. This is actually a true malaysian Chinese dish and Yuen Kee has the best I have eaten anywhere else in Malaysia. The eggs are properly seared on the edges and outside but the inside remains creamy and slightly runny. It doesn't give you the fried omelette vibes that you often get with less experienced chefs.
The other unsung hero - sweet and sour pork. The sauce has the right amount of tang, spiciness and sweetness which are cleverly balanced yet compliments the fried pork perfectly. The wok hei in this dish is out of this world. I will truly miss this dish should the restaurant ever closes...
The choice of soups are usually in the range from 3 to 5 varieties - all double boiled style. Lovely, simple and classical soups from the kitchens of the past. Above: watercress and pork rib soup. Below: chicken herbal soup.
The restaurant opens from Tuesdays to Sundays upwards from 10.30 a.m. and closes at 2.30 p.m. They used to offer dinner but not anymore. Prices are the most reasonable that one can ask for.
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