Spring Market at Poitiers

For many reasons, spring is my favourite time of the year. The weather is always mild, everything is fresh and vibrant again after winter and there's just something about bursting buds everywhere that triggers the mood...

As always, the market remains my regular haunt, especially the Saturday morning market because that's when the farmers will gather to sell their produce. This is the real visage of France: the unpretentious and quality produce meant solely for the French dining table, nothing sweetened up for the tourists. Everything in the market reflects the changing of the seasons where no imported out-of-season-artificially boosted-up fruits and vegetables is offered.

First glimpses of spring: daffodils, or jonquilles in French, herald the arrival of spring. They're sold everywhere in the market and found flowering profusely in public parks and gardens.

Burst of golden yellow.

Variation on a theme.

Nonchalant poetry: two portraits of the daffodils. Sometimes, things are perfect not trying.

Colourful straw totes, called cabas in French for shopping. The French were way eco-friendly before it was a trend. Almost everyone has one for their marketing, usually in corn straw and leather handles.

Instantly recognizable because it is also sold during the festive season of the Chinese New Year back home: pussy willows.

Savoy cabbage, chou de milan in French.

Celeriac, roots of the celery. My favourite root vegetable because of its intense celery perfume. Eaten raw as a salad or pureed as an accompaniment. Makes an incredible stir fry with tofu, mushroom, oyster sauce and a dash of sesame oil.

Black radish...

Endive, essentially a winter salad. Eaten simply with a dash of vinaigrette and cheese. Has a decidedly bitter-sweet taste and a crunchy and refreshing bite.

Brussels sprout.

Cauliflower, eaten raw with home made mayonnaise dip as finger food, my first shock in France. In front are new garlic: tender sprout of the spring garlic. They are very fragrant and I often use them for stir frying or omelet.

New potatoes from the islands of Oleron and ile de Re, off the Atlantic coasts. Expensive as they are, they are about the most tender and sweet of potatoes found and are best eaten steamed or boiled with a pinch of fine fleur de sel and butter.

Violet artichokes. This is a small variety and is usually eaten whole. Here's an interesting recipe adapted from a vegetarian recipe I learned from a lady from Provence...

Serves 2

4 - 6 heads of violet artichokes
1/2 cup of bacon pieces
100 g of mutton, cubed
5 cloves of garlic, smashed with the back of a cleaver and skin left intact
1 large onion, chopped
100 ml of passata (tomato puree Italian-styled)
1/2 cup of pitted black olives
olive oil
2 bay leaves
salt to taste

When choosing the artichokes, look for firm and tender globes. In French markets, they are usually sold in bunches of 3-4 heads. Cut off the stem of the artichoke at the base of the globe. Reserve the upper part of the tender stem - peel of the skin and the tender inner stem can be cooked and eaten.

In a casserole (if you possess a cast-iron casserole like those made by Le Creuset, it will be perfect), brown the mutton in olive oil. Add the bacon, garlic, onion and bay leaf. Stir well to soften the onion. Add the passata and olive, coat well. At this point, you may add a dash of white wine to deglaze the pot. Throw in the artichokes and stems, coat well and pour in enough water or stock to cover the artichokes. Cover and put in a medium heat oven to cook down the juice. Serve with warm baguette - this will make very good conversation food.

Pumpkins, called potirons in French.

Navet, or turnip.

Big artichokes...

Radish, often eaten as salad. Simply serve with fleur de sel and butter.

Jewels of spring: morel mushrooms. They are expensive but superior to the cepes' perfume (called porcini in Italian).